As we’ve discussed in parts 1 and 2 of our series on
creating curves, enhancing your silhouette with those iconic feminine hourglass
curves is a wonderful way to build a flattering foundation for any style. This
time we will look at how best to shape our waists to create a graceful
inflection point of our hourglass shape. With a rectangular body shape, it is
sometimes difficult for the eye to tell where the curve of the waist should
fall so its important we offer as much help with our style choices as possible
when we’re trying to create those hourglass curves. Being a rectangular body
shape, I find that defining my waist is the single most useful way to help
achieve a curvier appearance. This is because my bust and hip measurements (if
you recall, I’m 37-30-38) are
already about the same, so if I give the appearance of a smaller, more defined
waist, my top and bottom (bust and hips) are balanced. Subsequently, bringing
in my middle (waist) makes a curvier shape. I can make curves more pronounced
by adding more on top and bottom if I like as well. If creating curves is the goal, we should always focus on a
balanced bust and waist, while adding definition to the waist. This can be accomplished by finding clothing that is tailored to flatter the waist or by defining your waist with a belt.
Like we’ve talked about, your natural waist should be a few
inches above your navel, however there is some flexibility in where you can
actually define this line. Depending on how clothing falls on your body you may
want to define it slightly higher or lower depending on what looks best, you’ll
know the sweet spot when you find it and it will vary depending on what you wear.
Clothing tailored to shape the waist -
Luckily, many tops or dresses are already tailored in such a
way as to shape the waist rather than simply hanging flat. Let’s take a look at
a simple example:
This simple white button up blouse (which should be a staple
of any woman’s wardrobe), is a great example of darts (seams used for shaping).
Do you see the vertical seams that pull the fabric in below the bust? They
create the gently curving silhouette along my side, very flattering. If
possible, look for these types of fitted styles and be sure to try them on…
they wont work too well if they aren’t following your body shape.
Another way to choose clothing which pulls in at the waist
is to look for empire waist cuts. Sorry to all you Star Wars fans out there,
but it is actually french and pronounced “om peer”, so you won’t see Darth Vader sporting one of
these anytime soon (unless he’s trans and reads my blog). Like the v-neck is
the flatter-any-body-type neckline, the empire waist cut is a go to flattering
waist cut for most body types. An empire waist is any waistline that is defined
just below the bust (above the natural waist). Below this defined waist, the
lower portion of garments with empire cuts hang, flowing outward away from the
waistline to varying degrees. This cut can be found in both tops and dresses.
It just so
happens that I have a top that is an example of this great v-neck, empire waist
combo:
As you can see, the waistline is directly below my bust,
while the sides slope gently outwards as they make their way down to my hips.
This sloping line reinforces the lower half of that hourglass shape. Many of us
may find that we’d like to shed a few pounds, especially around our stomach
area (the dreaded beer gut!). By hanging loosely over your mid-section, empire
waists can help conceal and de-emphasize those extra pounds. Sometimes fitted
clothes like our first example can be not as effective due to a bulge here or
there, an empire waist tends avoid this problem.
Defining the waist with belts -
The idea of using belts outside of safety of the belt loops
on your pants may seem a bit awkward at first, but it is a handy trick when it
comes to defining the waist line and can become a useful accessory in your
wardrobe. A few things to consider with belts are the color, width, and
placement on your body.
You have likely seen plenty of clothing with built in belts,
ties, or ribbons around the waist. These combinations are very helpful for a
few reasons. Not only do you get a free belt, but they will likely give you a
nicely coordinated belt/top combination so you won’t have to worry about
pairing your own belt (though that can be a fun opportunity for accessorizing
in your own style). Let’s take a look at an example of this type of combo:
The thin black belt on this coral top falls right on my
natural waist, creating lines that sweep outward from it both above and below,
a subtle hint to the eye of that hourglass shape. Notice how when you pull in,
even slightly, at the waist, it forces the fabric to then flow outward from
that point, instant curves! When shopping for these kinds of tops/dresses, be
sure to look critically at where the designed waist of the garment falls in
relationship to your natural waist. As a guideline, you typically want to aim
to hit your natural waist or slightly above, however, it may still be
flattering if the belt falls elsewhere too so use your best judgment, some looks
work best slightly below the natural waist too.
Amongst the options to consider when choosing a belt is the
width of the belt. Whether a belt is skinny or wide, its important to find one
that adjusts either with a buckle or by stretching around your particular waist
sizes and can fit both above, on, and below your natural waist. Feel free to
play with widths on your own body to see what you like, some general tips to
help: With less defined, rectangular waists (like mine) skinny belts which lay
slightly lower than your natural waist in front usually look great. Girls with
longer torsos/waists can wear wider belts quite successfully; conversely,
shorter waisted girls should stick more to thinner belts. Wider, elasticized belts
can be used to have a “girdling” effect over areas that may have a little
extra.
Layers offer many opportunities for creativity and creating
volume, however, curves will tend to get lost a bit in multiple layers. With so
much potential for putting our own personal twist on our style, there is no
need to sacrifice creating curves while playing with layers. It is simply too
much fun to miss. Once again, belts to the rescue!
This outfit features a soft pink, button front cardigan over
a chambray button up top with a neutral belt wrapped around all the layers.
This could also work wonderfully with the outermost layer being a belted
sweater. No matter what you wear, be mindful of how baggy or fitted your outfit
is in order to avoid creating unflattering bunching when using a belt, this is
especially true with multiple layers.
In review:
1. Look for tailoring that promotes curves.
Empire waist cuts work especially well.
2. Try pieces with built-in belts to better define the waist.
3. Add your own belt over layers to help create shape.
4. Experiment with different widths and placements of belts
to find the most flattering combination.
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