Softening a Strong or Angular Jaw line: Necklaces to work with your Face Shape

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One of the most popular posts thus far has been our discussion of the most flattering neckline styles. I thought I’d rekindle and expand on the topic to discuss face shapes and how to best work with each one to achieve a more feminine image. We’ll look at necklaces and how to pick just the right one for whatever your favorite outfit may be. When paired with the right neckline, necklaces can do wonders to soften a strong jaw line or square, rectangular or triangular shaped face. Trans-women don’t always fall into these categories, but if you do, it may be something you’d like to soften up. I have an oval or oblong shaped face for example… its not overly angular but still benefits from a little softening (don’t we all right?). As always, there are plenty of ways we can make our jaw lines softer while making our necklines dazzling. If you are unsure of your face shape, compare it to the picture below. As you can see... rectangular, square and triangular all have “strong” more masculine jawlines. Face shapes are also very important to consider when choosing a flattering hair style, however we’ll save that for another post!

Before we get into the specifics, let’s look at the basics and learn the lingo (so we can at least sound like we know what we’re talking about!) Necklaces are classified generally by length. Below you’ll see the 6 most common necklace lengths:

I find a graphic like this to be especially helpful for reference when buying jewelry online. Sites will always give you at least the necklace length, so you can get a general idea of how it’ll fall when you wear it.

As you will remember from our discussion on flattering necklines, if we’re looking to shrink broad shoulders we’re typically looking for scoop, v-neck or perhaps even cowl neck styles, anything to break up the shoulder line. For the group of face shapes I mentioned above, we are looking to soften the hard angular lines of the face by:

1. Adding the appearance of length to the face to give the appearance of stretching out those hard angles
2. Add more curved lines around the neck to create a softer “framing” for the jaw.

We’ll start by pairing necklaces with our “go-to” necklines, but also take a look at others since you certainly shouldn’t limit yourself to only those styles. In fact, with the right necklace, some of the less flattering choices can become much more friendly.

Before we start, here are a few general necklace guidelines I always try to be conscious of:

-      Avoid lengths where the bottom of the necklace hits right at the neckline. It will simply get lost in the lines of the top and look unpolished. If this happens, you can adjust the length either with a built in clasp or by using an extender.

-      Think of your neckline as a frame for your necklace. Consider:  How does the shape of the neckline showcase the necklace?

-      Not every outfit needs a necklace! Having too many competing pieces in an ensemble detracts from everything.

Without further ado, let’s jump into some examples:

First, we have a teal, v-neck sweater with a princess length, heart pendant necklace. With pendant style necklaces, the line created by the necklace chain is typically a “V” shape. This pairs well with v-necklines and just like the neckline, helps to elongate the jaw and face vertically, softening any hard edges. Take a look:

Notice how the neckline frames the nicely centered heart. This is typical the type of look I wear most when choosing a princess length necklaces. It is very “classic” cute… and will work on most everyone. Be careful wearing really thin chains and tinier necklaces if you are especially built in the upper body as it may exaggerate things through contrast. Instead, chose something less fragile looking to avoid the necklace looking out of place.

Just as a pendant creates a “V” shape, a necklace that is a simple chain alone will create a more curved shape as it rests against your chest. For example:

This silver chain is paired with a fairly deep scoop neck top. The curved lines of the top and the necklace compliment each other and also help the eye to “expect” curves rather than sharp angular lines. This effect can help soften harder jaw line. The opposite holds true as well… typically you’ll want to avoid angular, geometrically shaped necklaces if you have a more rectangular jaw line.

Let’s explore another look:

Yes, you are seeing clearly… there is no necklace here! I wanted to make sure I re-iterated my point from earlier, not every outfit needs a necklace. Don’t feel pressured into accessorizing every possible option. This deep plunging V-neck does a fabulous job of lengthening my face and jaw line vertically; many necklace choices with this outfit would just break up that lengthening effect and create clutter. Could one wear a necklace here? Yes, but my style choice is always on the side of less is more.

If you recall from the flattering necklines post, crew necks did not rate super favorably when compared to the other, more flattering choices. Let’s take a look at how a necklace can enhance the value of a neckline that doesn’t do much for us:

Here, this long, rope or lariat length necklace serves to create a stretched vertical line that in essence, creates a new neckline for the top. Try pairing longer necklaces with necklines that are more horizontal such as crew or boat necks to add that helpful vertically stretching line.

Just for fun, our last example is a choker length statement necklace:

Again, this necklace exhibits both curving lines and extending vertical lines for all those jaw-softening effects. Bold statement necklaces, especially those with some bulk and volume also can make a jaw line appear smaller by contrast (that whole make something look smaller by putting something big next to it effect!). Let flashier pieces of jewelry such as this be a breathtaking focal point of an ensemble… they will get noticed and work best when not competing for attention with other parts of an outfit.

Thanks for checking out this post! Be sure to Like “A Stylish Transition” on facebook and share it with all your friends.

Cheers,

Kayci

Bracelets for Larger Hands and Wrists: Advice that could come in Handy!

Being a drummer, I have built up all sorts of fabulous muscles in my hands which help me play better… however, they also prevent me from slipping any sort of solid bracelet or bangle onto my wrist without dislocating my thumb! Drummer or not, trans-women have (on average) larger hands and wrists than cis-gender women, it’s a fact of life. Larger, bulky bracelets are not only trendy, but also help make hands look smaller by comparison, something we're typically interested in doing. If they’re too tight, you may run the risk of accomplishing just the opposite or, in my case, dislocating your thumb.

I have searched high and low for anywhere that makes larger diameter bangles and have yet to track down any reliable leads… if anyone has an insider scoop, please let me know! So… short of making my own (how hard could it be, right?) and with bangles and solid bracelets so popular nowadays, what options do we have to take their place?

The answer at first glance is: Stretch, Spiral/Coil, Cuffed, Hinged, and Clasped Bracelets. They all solve the problem of getting a bracelet onto your wrist without breaking your hand… so we’re half way there! About half the time for me, just going to these styles is enough to get the look I desire.

Unfortunately, the other half of the time (usually when something is super cute or I’m totally in love with it!) these readily available styles are still too tight around my wrist bones. Ideally, I like to have a bracelet loose enough to slide on my wrist and hang onto my hand a bit if my arm is at my side… not squeezed tightly like a coiling python! … to me, that loose fit is one of those little everyday feminine details I cherish. Luckily, I have a few tricks up my sleeve (sometimes literally haha) to modify easily available bracelets for that little bit of extra length! (These may not work with everything, but can certainly help in many cases)

• Spiral/Coil Bracelets: Spiral Bracelets are shaped like coils, or springs and despite any embellishments, almost always have a central spring-like wire that runs through the entirety of the coil. The trick here is simple, slowly and gently bend this central wire outwards to increase the diameter of the spiral. Work over the whole length of the coil, flattening out the curve and gradually it will relax, creating a larger bracelet! If you want the coil to stay perfectly even, be sure to bend gradually and slowly. Here's an example of a coiled bracelet I have "stretched" out a bit, it gives that "collection of bangles" appearance but as a single piece:

• Clasped bracelets: Clasped bracelets use a lobster claw, or other type of clasp to close around the wrist. For these, you can buy jewelry extenders (try a quick search on amazon.com) and then cut the extender to length till its just right for you. This trick also works (perhaps even better) with necklaces. Shown without an extender below, all you need to do is clasp the extender in line with the clasp already on the bracelet and you're good to go!

• Stretch Bracelets: Stretched bracelets are neat interlocking or patterned pieces repeated with a couple of hidden elastic strands threaded through everything to hold it all together. Cool concept, easy to put on, but typically a little to tight on me. This trick is the most labor intensive of the three, and works best with more inexpensive bracelets ($5-$10 range… think F21 type jewelry). First off, if you see a bracelet you want that is too tight, buy two… yes, I know, it’s twice as expensive, but work with me here, its only going to be $15 or so. You will also need to head to a craft store and buy some stretchy elastic cord that’ll fit through the thread holes in your bracelet. 

First, as shown above, you want to cut apart one of the bracelets and remove one set of the patterned pieces (or however many you think will make the proper increase in size). Next, take apart the other bracelet and remove the elastics. Lastly (the most time consuming step), re-string the bracelet back together, adding the pieces from the “donor” bracelet in as well. Tie it all off and viola! You have a new, looser fitting elastic bracelet!

Hope these tips make it easier to accessorize your wrists happily!

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4 Ways to Spice up a T-shirt and Jeans Look

Before we dive into our topic, I’d like to make a bit of a personal announcement… I am happy to announce that this past Thursday, National Coming Out Day for those of you who may not know, I sent a letter out to all of my close friends announcing that I am transgender and plan to within the next year start living my life the way I have always hoped, as a woman. The responses were overwhelmingly heartwarming and truly solidified my belief that my friends are amazingly accepting and loving people. I love them all to pieces! This meaningful step forward got me thinking more about how I plan to present myself to others as I slowly advance towards finally living full-time.

One of the difficult things (it seems at this stage of my life that all things are difficult) I have found in preparing for this leap of faith into living full time (or even presenting part-time) as a woman is developing a look and wardrobe that will not only be stylish, but also be something practical that I will feel confident in wearing as all those important people in my life start to shape their new views of me. Despite the numerous beautifully feminine frocks hanging in my closet, I’m not always comfortable or confident with being overtly feminine and find myself looking for an androgynous step of fashion along the way to transitioning to full time. At a time when insecurities mount, and nothing seems to look right in the mirror, what is a girl to do? We’ve all been in that situation... frustrated, mildly panicked, insecure… it’s an overwhelmingly vulnerable feeling. So, what can we do?

I’ve found that the simplicity of a casual style is the most effective way to restore my confidence and offer that reassurance that can be so important when I look in the mirror. What could be simpler than the common T-shirt and jeans? Let’s explore a few ways we can make this tried and true look fashionable and stylish, while still maintaining its comforting, simple appeal. After all… there isn’t much more comfy than a t-shirt and jeans.

As you can imagine, this all starts with a fabulous pair of jeans. Investing money in a quality pair of jeans that fit well and look great is the most important investment you can make in a wardrobe. Spend plenty of time trying on jeans and finding the perfect pair, you’ll be rewarded from the effort every time you wear them. Opt for mid to high rise jeans (higher up on your waist), darker washes (darker color), and skinny or straight leg cuts for the most flattering and versatile options. Spending $50-$100 on a nice pair of jeans is a solid investment in your style future.

The next ingredient after the jeans is a simple, but nice, typically solid color, T-shirt or top. Almost all stores sell many flavors of t-shirt styles usually in a rainbow of colors. Keeping what we learned about flattering necklines in mind as you choose, sticking to scoop or v-necks for the most flattering look. Stores such as Forever 21, or American Apparel (and many, many others!) offer wide arrays of tops in their “basics” sections that will let you select any style or color your heart desires.

With our two key ingredients in hand, its time to take a look at 4 ways we can make tasteful yet notable style choices for this simple look.

1. Layering

            You’ve heard me mention layering several times before, and will probably hear it again and again and again… and then some more most likely! Layering is a great way to create visual interest in an outfit as well as accomplish many other more specific goals. We’ll discuss now how a layer can add just that little extra touch to take a T-shirt and jeans to another level.

What can you layer? The answer is just about anything, but for now, let’s stick to pieces that open in the front such as blazers, jackets, or cardigan sweaters. Why is this you may ask? The point is to add another layer of interest so something that completely covers the layer below it wont really help you (unless you’re goal is to be warmer!). Pieces with open front allow the middle section of a Tee or top to show through while add their own new color or texture to frame it. If you have items that don’t open in the front, don’t fret… experiment with the lower layer peaking through the neckline. Let’s take a look at an example of simple layering in action:

Here we have a simple v-neck, white tee with a three-quarter sleeve, evergreen blazer over the top (by Casual Couture). We’ve added another color (actually two in this particular case) and new lines to enhance the interest of the whole outfit. Exciting, yes, I know!

When picking out the perfect blazer you’ll have a ton of options from which to chose, ranging from casual to more formal business-y styles. Any style can work, either dressing the outfit up or down, but I recommend sticking to something more casual to start, especially if you’re still unsure about the whole idea. Avoid blazers with shoulder pads to minimize the size of your shoulders, finding one without padding may be a little tricky, but they are certainly out there. Since it is likely a nice blazer will be a bit more of a pricey piece, try to get the most mileage out of it by purchasing it in a versatile color that can be paired with most of your wardrobe (ie. neutrals, darker colors)

Here are a couple more quick examples of layers:

These two examples show more ideas for layer with either a cardigan sweater or a vest… the possibilities are endless and as easy as simply putting on another layer. One question you may have is whether or not to tuck in that bottom t-shirt layer… my preference is resoundingly not to tuck in and I’ll tell you why… I believe it looks more casual and is no hassle to maintain during the day (a tucked shirt may have you constantly fighting bunches or bulges). The times when you do want to tuck shirts in are when you’re trying to create a smooth layer underneath say a pull over sweater, or in more formal situations. Having a stripe of contrast where a Tee pokes out at the bottom under a sweater can be cute as well.

Lastly, you can play with layering t-shirts themselves, short sleeve over long sleeve, longline, different colors, different necklines… you name it! This is a useful trick many times when a t-shirt is just a little too shear which tends to be common with light colors. Play around with it and see if you come up with anything you like… here is one idea I came up with a burnt orange short sleeve layered over a white long sleeved tee:

2. Accessorize your neck!

            Long necklaces and scarves are great ways to spice up your top, adding another dimension to that plain solid colored T-shirt. We mentioned these ideas specifically when we looked at ways to enhance the bustline, but let’s explore those options a bit further.

Scarves are great for fall, and winter but can even be worn through the summer months as well. In warmer weather you typically want to stick to scarves that are lighter weight materials such as silk, whereas in the winter you can quite happily bundle up in wool or thicker knits.  Here are two scarf ideas:

Don’t be afraid to try patterns, the added texture will create even more interest and help showcase your personal style. Animal prints are great here! The other thing I absolutely love about scarves is that there are a million (and counting) ways to tie them!  Check out this great article on “15 Chic and Creative Ways to Tie a Scarf” or search the Internet to find tons more ideas.

In addition to scarves, you can obviously also add your own touch of personal style with all types of necklaces. There are several examples scattered throughout this post of necklaces I added. Try out longer necklaces to create elongated vertical lines that will look  more slimming and cover more of your torso with your t-shirt as a backdrop. This can be a great opportunity to showcase your favorite jewelry without risking it getting lost in the rest of an outfit.

3. Color Block with Colored Jeans

What is Color Blocking you may ask? You’ve already mostly answered your own question in the name itself! Color blocking is a fashion trend which started in 2011 and came back strong in 2012 (we’ll see if it carries over to 2013!) which combines large blocks of solid colors to create a very colorful, always eye catching look. This style is pretty flashy, especially if you start mixing in neon colors but can look quite trendy if done right. Typically you find color blocking is more of a spring/summer trend but with the right colors (think more understated) it can work for any season. Not entirely my cup of tea, but maybe it is a style you love, so I’m going to give it a go!

A good baby step towards this trend is to simply experiment with colored denim jeans where you would normal wear dark wash regular jeans. After all, this is all about dressing up that plain T-shirt and Jeans.  Colored denim is very much in style currently and can be a great way to spice up your look making it more fashionably adventurous while still staying within that comfort zone.

Here is my best attempt at the bold world of color blocking… I’ve combined a red pair of skinny jeans (the only colored denim I own currently) with a purple top and sprinkled on a bright teal beaded necklace and a solid orange bangle to accessorize. Bold, solid color accessories can add just enough extra pop to color blocking to bring everything together. Not exactly worthy of fashion week, but this was the closest I could get with what I have… maybe next spring I’ll try it out this trend in earnest if it is still alive and well.

For a whole lot more tips, here is a great article on how to pull off the color blocking trend. You can take it way beyond simply a T-shirt and jeans if you like the style and work it into many other outfits. If color blocking works well for you, I’d love to hear any tips and secrets you may have!

4. Add Footwear that Pops

Another idea I like to see to kick the t-shirt and jeans look up a notch is to pair it with footwear that really pops with color. Here I've added those cute red, suede flats you may remember from my post on flattering your feet with a white long sleeved top and black skinny jeans, adding a splash of color to an otherwise monochromatic outfit. You can also try to bring that color in elsewhere too, such as a bright red lipstick perhaps in this case, if you want to coordinate even further.

A t-shirt and jeans offer a simple, comfy canvas that is perfect for adding your personal flare and showcasing statement pieces like jewelry or footwear, since the rest of the outfit tend to be more understated and not compete for attention. 

To summarize 4 ways we discussed at taking that T-shirt and Jeans look to the next level:

             

1. Add Layers! Throw on a blazer, cardigan, vest, or jacket on over the plain t-shirt to get that extra bit of style and interest.
2. Accessorize your Neck. Play with scarves, and longer necklaces in particular
3. Try rocking colored denim, and if you're adventurous, try Color blocking styles with Solid hues, bright accessories.
4. Add shoes that pop
5. As always, experiment with textures & patterns to create visual interest.
6. Combine any of the tips and ideas here together to create your own favorite looks

Hope you enjoyed learning how to spice up your t-shirt and jeans! Be sure to check out “A Stylish Transition” on Facebook and show your support with a “Like” or a “Share”

Staying Ahead of the Curve: Get Hip to Your Curves, Don’t Skirt the Issue! - Part 4 of 4

Welcome back for the final installment of “Staying Ahead of the Curve”, the quest for creating that coveted hourglass figure. If you missed posts 1, 2 or 3 in the series, please check those out too, lots of great information there as well. Also, some exciting news! We've joined the world of Facebook, so be sure to show your support with a "like" on the "A Stylish Transition" page. 

Today, in part 4, we’ll be discussing how to encourage flattering curves around your hips to wonderfully round out the bottom of that hourglass. As I’ve mentioned many times previously, enhancement (lengthening) of any of the body’s lines can be achieved either by adding volume, or by highlighting/drawing attention to that area. The hip line is no different, and by design, the fashion world offers a myriad of style options to come to our rescue. Let’s jump right in with an example:

Here we have coral, black and white, pleated full/A-line skirt from H&M with a tailored, white button up blouse suspiciously similar to the one in the previous post (ok, you got me, it’s the same one… I told you it was a staple!). This is more of a quintessentially classic, feminine look than I typical wear, however it always fun to stretch one’s limits. Of course, I had to add the pearls for good measure. So what is the lesson to be learned from this ensemble? Lets take a closer look at the skirt and how it creates that sought after volume. Pleats are great for creating volume, really great in fact. For example, this particular skirt has some pretty serious pleat action going on, which takes my hip measurement from its actual 38” to appearing to be around 42” where the outer edge of the skirt appears around my hips. That’s a tremendous increase! Additionally, the skirt is lighter around the hips, further highlighting that section for an added bonus. This is considered a full or an “A” Line skirt , because, quite literally, it is shaped like the letter A (see… some things about style are really straightforward!). The top of the skirt sits up at my natural waist and floats freely outward from there, the result: an effortless hourglass shape around the hips. Be sure you are wearing skirts at the proper height around your waist line to get the most advantage from their shape. This full skirt shape is also commonly found in dress designs and has the same voluminous effect. Dresses with the empire waist cut that we discussed during defining your waist have a similar, but generally more subdued effect of an A-Line, flowing outward from the waist. There are many other shapes you can choose from as well:

                                   Bubble Skirt                                                Tulip Skirt

Experiment with Full, Tulip, Bubble or recently trending peplum style (for the braver fashionistas) skirt types. All do a fabulous job creating that volume around the hips that we are after. Remember, the more rectangular your body shape, the more you want to go for a fully flaring, exaggerated, skirt shape. Styles with only subtle flares do well with the encouragement of slightly curvier bodies but could potentially sit lifelessly and appear shapeless on you. As always, trust your intuition... if it looks fabulous, go for it.

While adding volume to your hips does the trick nicely, there is a surprising other alternative for those of us with straight, more rectangular body shapes. Though it may seem a bit counter intuitive, you can actually do the opposite of what we’ve just discussed and wear something form fitting, like skinny jeans, on the bottom and let your natural curves do all the work for you. This trick is surprisingly effective even with only the most modest of curves if you are of slim build. With a slim build, it doesn’t take much of a difference in hip and waist measurements to see a subtle curve. Let’s take a look at this trick in action:

This outfit features a lush Plum Red, cowl neck, cashmere sweater (brand new and oh so comfy!) and a pair of dark wash, mid-rise skinny jeans from H&M.  This works best with mid to higher waisted jeans and a top that fits a bit more loosely (I find the combination of contrasting looser tops with more form fitting bottoms to be quite effective, rather than form fitting both on the top and bottom). The higher waisted top of the jeans layered under the top helps add a touch more volume as well... every little bit helps. This same concept could work just as well with form fitting pencil skirt if you want a change from skinny jeans.

In review:

1. Try A-line, full, tulip, bubble or peplum style dresses/skirts to add volume to your hips.
2. Be sure to wear skirts at the proper height around your waist line to get the most advantage from their shape.
3. The more rectangular your body shape, the more full/exaggerated you want your skirt shape to be.
4. If you are slim, trying something form fitting on the bottom and let your natural curves shine... you may be pleasantly surprised. 

Staying Ahead of the Curve: An Opportunity too Good to Waist! - Part 3 of 4

As we’ve discussed in parts 1 and 2 of our series on creating curves, enhancing your silhouette with those iconic feminine hourglass curves is a wonderful way to build a flattering foundation for any style. This time we will look at how best to shape our waists to create a graceful inflection point of our hourglass shape. With a rectangular body shape, it is sometimes difficult for the eye to tell where the curve of the waist should fall so its important we offer as much help with our style choices as possible when we’re trying to create those hourglass curves. Being a rectangular body shape, I find that defining my waist is the single most useful way to help achieve a curvier appearance. This is because my bust and hip measurements (if you recall, I’m 37-30-38)  are already about the same, so if I give the appearance of a smaller, more defined waist, my top and bottom (bust and hips) are balanced. Subsequently, bringing in my middle (waist) makes a curvier shape. I can make curves more pronounced by adding more on top and bottom if I like as well.  If creating curves is the goal, we should always focus on a balanced bust and waist, while adding definition to the waist. This can be accomplished by finding clothing that is tailored to flatter the waist or by defining your waist with a belt.

Like we’ve talked about, your natural waist should be a few inches above your navel, however there is some flexibility in where you can actually define this line. Depending on how clothing falls on your body you may want to define it slightly higher or lower depending on what looks best, you’ll know the sweet spot when you find it and it will vary depending on what you wear.

Clothing tailored to shape the waist - 

Luckily, many tops or dresses are already tailored in such a way as to shape the waist rather than simply hanging flat. Let’s take a look at a simple example:

This simple white button up blouse (which should be a staple of any woman’s wardrobe), is a great example of darts (seams used for shaping). Do you see the vertical seams that pull the fabric in below the bust? They create the gently curving silhouette along my side, very flattering. If possible, look for these types of fitted styles and be sure to try them on… they wont work too well if they aren’t following your body shape.

Another way to choose clothing which pulls in at the waist is to look for empire waist cuts. Sorry to all you Star Wars fans out there, but it is actually french and pronounced “om peer”, so you won’t see Darth Vader sporting one of these anytime soon (unless he’s trans and reads my blog). Like the v-neck is the flatter-any-body-type neckline, the empire waist cut is a go to flattering waist cut for most body types. An empire waist is any waistline that is defined just below the bust (above the natural waist). Below this defined waist, the lower portion of garments with empire cuts hang, flowing outward away from the waistline to varying degrees. This cut can be found in both tops and dresses.

 It just so happens that I have a top that is an example of this great v-neck, empire waist combo:

As you can see, the waistline is directly below my bust, while the sides slope gently outwards as they make their way down to my hips. This sloping line reinforces the lower half of that hourglass shape. Many of us may find that we’d like to shed a few pounds, especially around our stomach area (the dreaded beer gut!). By hanging loosely over your mid-section, empire waists can help conceal and de-emphasize those extra pounds. Sometimes fitted clothes like our first example can be not as effective due to a bulge here or there, an empire waist tends avoid this problem.

Defining the waist with belts - 

The idea of using belts outside of safety of the belt loops on your pants may seem a bit awkward at first, but it is a handy trick when it comes to defining the waist line and can become a useful accessory in your wardrobe. A few things to consider with belts are the color, width, and placement on your body.

You have likely seen plenty of clothing with built in belts, ties, or ribbons around the waist. These combinations are very helpful for a few reasons. Not only do you get a free belt, but they will likely give you a nicely coordinated belt/top combination so you won’t have to worry about pairing your own belt (though that can be a fun opportunity for accessorizing in your own style). Let’s take a look at an example of this type of combo:

The thin black belt on this coral top falls right on my natural waist, creating lines that sweep outward from it both above and below, a subtle hint to the eye of that hourglass shape. Notice how when you pull in, even slightly, at the waist, it forces the fabric to then flow outward from that point, instant curves! When shopping for these kinds of tops/dresses, be sure to look critically at where the designed waist of the garment falls in relationship to your natural waist. As a guideline, you typically want to aim to hit your natural waist or slightly above, however, it may still be flattering if the belt falls elsewhere too so use your best judgment, some looks work best slightly below the natural waist too.

Amongst the options to consider when choosing a belt is the width of the belt. Whether a belt is skinny or wide, its important to find one that adjusts either with a buckle or by stretching around your particular waist sizes and can fit both above, on, and below your natural waist. Feel free to play with widths on your own body to see what you like, some general tips to help: With less defined, rectangular waists (like mine) skinny belts which lay slightly lower than your natural waist in front usually look great. Girls with longer torsos/waists can wear wider belts quite successfully; conversely, shorter waisted girls should stick more to thinner belts. Wider, elasticized belts can be used to have a “girdling” effect over areas that may have a little extra.

Layers offer many opportunities for creativity and creating volume, however, curves will tend to get lost a bit in multiple layers. With so much potential for putting our own personal twist on our style, there is no need to sacrifice creating curves while playing with layers. It is simply too much fun to miss. Once again, belts to the rescue!

This outfit features a soft pink, button front cardigan over a chambray button up top with a neutral belt wrapped around all the layers. This could also work wonderfully with the outermost layer being a belted sweater. No matter what you wear, be mindful of how baggy or fitted your outfit is in order to avoid creating unflattering bunching when using a belt, this is especially true with multiple layers.

In review:

1. Look for tailoring that promotes curves. Empire waist cuts work especially well.

2. Try pieces with built-in belts to better define the waist.

3. Add your own belt over layers to help create shape.

4. Experiment with different widths and placements of belts to find the most flattering combination.

Staying Ahead of the Curve: Curves or Bust! - Part 2 of 4

In continuation of the series for helping achieve that elusive hourglass shape, let’s talk about emphasizing the bustline. The extent to which a person needs to do this varies from no need at all, to… bring on the va va voom…. it all depends on your body shape. If you have a larger, muscular upper body or are more of an exaggerated inverted triangle, you probably don’t need to try to enhance your bust line since it is naturally larger. Featuring it more prominently won’t do much to help your figure.  Instead, focus on balancing the size up top by working to widen your hip line (We will talk all about that in part 4). On the other hand, if you are like me, straight up and down, then this post is for you!

The foundation of a wonderful looking bust is without a doubt a correctly fitting bra. This can be a challenge, especially if you are developing during transition or even wrestling with finding the right breastform size for your frame. The best way to ensure the right fit is to have it professionally done (if you use forms, be sure to have them included when you measure). If that is something you aren’t comfortable with yet, don’t fret… just be conscious of your fit (I have the same anxiety about it). There are bra size calculators online which you can input your measurements into, however their accuracy may not be great. Many bras have built in padding which obviously will enhance the bust line, this trick shouldn’t be a surprise to anyone… it’s so common because it works! With everything held proudly where it belongs, we can further create the illusion of a fuller bust in a couple ways: by adding volume or by highlighting/attracting interest.

While keeping our strategies for softening shoulders in the back of our mind, we can add fullness to the bust with tops that feature ruffles or other detailing over the bust area. Things like ruffles, ruching, or pockets all literally add volume with additional fabric making the area larger, pretty simple. Let’s take a look at a few examples from my closet:

First, and only because I love you all… let’s look at something relatively unflattering for comparison: this t-shirt adds no help to my bustline, so I appear exactly as my body shape.

See... like I said, unflattering, yuck! Now that we’ve got that out of the way…we’ll start more subtly with this green, cowl neck top:

See how even the extra few folds of this style cowl neck fall right on the bustline? Doesn’t have to be much in order to start having some effect. Also, look at how the little gathering detail on the outside of the sleeves falls right in line with the bustline, a bit of extra fabric goes a long way. Notice a difference in how things appear from the t-shirt? Any curvier?

Let’s take a look at another example:

This top features not only the beaded embellishment across the bust which attracts the eye but also the ruching that follows the contour of the neckline, adding a bit of extra fabric. Attracting interest, adding volume… that’s our goal! Also take a look at how the line of the sleeves flows down to just below the bustline in a contour much like that of the hour glass shape itself. The t-shirt sleeves have a similar taper, but end above the bust, truncating that nice flowing line, so be careful of where the bottom of the sleeve hits. Cuts like this make that hourglass line standout, even if it may not be there. 

Yet another way to add volume is by layering. Fall is almost upon us and there is no better season to play with layers of clothing! Try to create volume by adding a silk scarf that rests nicely on the bust. Be wary of putting too much extra volume on your shoulders and neck. Remember, the purpose is to enhance the bust, not the entire upper body.

One quick and easy look that I love to see is simply adding a scarf to a t-shirt or other non-descript top. Take that t-shirt from the first picture, add a cute scarf….

… and viola! Instant added volume and enhanced bust line. See! Easy as can be! :-)

In addition to adding volume, another way to create the effect of a larger bustline is by highlighting and drawing attention to the area. This is generally not too difficult, considering the area usually gets plenty of attention regardless of what you do! One way to accomplish this is through the use of color. Brighter and lighter colors emphasize an area. Try tops or dresses with lighter color blocking or detailing around the bust (or a lighter scarf, like in the previous example).  Another fabulous way to draw the eye to the bust is by using longer, bulkier necklaces that hang over the bust itself… it’ll add some more interest, and perhaps even a little bulk as well. Take a look at that same t-shirt with this yellow beaded necklace:

Perhaps not a huge difference, but it certainly helps promote the idea... if you feel something you try should be working, but isn't... feel free to point at it, that tends to grab attention too ;)

Now that we know a few new ways to flatter our bustlines, I think it’s important to point out that you don’t always (or ever if its your preference) need to enhance the bustline.

Small is quite beautiful, and many times emphasizing another one of your fabulous features negates a need to find that perfect hourglass shape.

To summarize our tips:

1. To enhance the bustline, add volume and/or attract interest to the area.
2. Look for dresses/tops which feature ruching, ruffles or other extra fabric to create volume. Look for embellishments and detailing to create interest.
3. Layering, such as scarves, can be another great way to add volume
4. Try to draw attention with a longer necklace that rests on the bust.

Stayed tuned for Part 3 of 4, coming soon!

Staying Ahead of the Curve: How to Make a Ruler an Hourglass

I’m sure by now you are all familiar with the infamous body types that divide the female form into categories (Hourglass, Apple, Pear, Rectangle/Ruler, and Inverted Triangle). An “hour-glass” shape is the cornerstone of a feminine image and is our ideal look to create. Nothing exudes femininity quite like  a gently sloping, curvaceous figure.  Most trans-women, especially early in transition, fall into the categories of rectangular/ruler or inverted triangle (this already sounds way more linear than curvy!). For those of you unfamiliar with these shapes, this simply means that we have only very subtle curves through our torso, while our shoulders and upper body tend to be proportionally larger than the rest of our body (a quintessentially male shape). Though it may seem like genetic odds are stacked against us, its worth pointing out that around 46% of genetic women have a rectangular body shape, so we are in good company as we learn to better shape our bodies.

In order to create curves we must consider all of our main bodylines (shoulders/bust, waist, and hips) and most importantly how they relate to each other. If you haven’t already, or just want a refresher, please check out my previous post on The Concept of Line which explains these lines. Shown below with their associated bodylines are the 2 common body types for trans-women side by side with the hourglass for comparison:

Let’s take a look at our ultimate goal, the hourglass shape, and how it’s lines relate to each other; typically a proportionally larger bust line contours down into a skinnier waist line which, in turn, curves gracefully outward around a hip line which is of similar width to the bust line. Now consider your own body shape… for myself, I am much more a rectangle than an inverted triangle, I have modestly broad shoulders, a smaller bust, a regular (but happily existent) waistline of similar width to my bust, and a small hip line (also very close in size to my waist and bust). Overall, I’m a cute ruler at best, prior to any styling magic…. So let the magic begin!

What do we need to do to get from where we are, to that goal of the hourglass shape? We have three options to enhance our curves, and should take full advantage of all three together in order to be most effective:

1. Create the appearance of a fuller bust.
2. Define and minimize our waist.
3. Create the appearance of wider hips. 

Given your body shape, you may not need all three, the key is to make them all work together… bust and hips the same width while being proportionally wider than the waist. For example, an inverted triangle should be careful with techniques for enhancing the bust line because they could emphasize an already large region if not done properly.

A quick caveat: One solution to address these would be to wear padding in the appropriate areas, or other shaping garments (corsets, etc). I find that this has limitations; many times it is both impractical and uncomfortable. If you are inclined to use padding, feel free, it is certainly a viable solution and will lead to good results if done properly. That being said, you can still achieve quite a bit with what you wear, and dressing in a flattering manner is important regardless of padding or not. Let’s look at what we can do with our style to accomplish these objectives.

Since each of these three curve enhancing strategies can be accomplished in a multitude of different ways, I’ve decided to dedicate each one to a separate post, so stay tuned as we go through each one!